Boat bums and pulpits

Recently Captain was heard to suggest it possibly wouldn’t be that difficult to change TC’s name back to its previous, and much nicer name, Ebb Tide. Hmmm ...

Poor old Captain: snapped while trying to eat his lunch!

Bookshelf (Soapbox?)

One of Matey’s fabulous friends recently mentioned she missed Matey’s book recommendations. Matey also misses these chats with like minds so here are a couple of books she’s read recently and recommends highly. Enjoy.

Collapse by Jared Diamond (author of the brilliant Guns, Germs and Steel, also highly recommended).

Although this is a few years old now it can only become more relevant as we continue to fail to heed the warnings of science. Quite accessible and should be required reading, IMHO.

Seasick by Alanna Mitchell.

This is not about that problem the Matey has when the going gets rough but something much bigger. Being anthropocentric and land-based, traditionally we have failed to see the ocean as the basis of all life. Due to the complexity of the science involved we have not understood its importance and are still working this out. (Living afloat on the ocean does help in viewing it somewhat differently though!) This book translates scientific concepts from a range of fields into an interesting and accessible read. Sadly though the prognosis is not good — again, we need to change our ways.

And, while on the theme of extracting heads from sand, The Weather Makers by Tim Flannery is something everyone should read, if you haven’t already, IMHO. (NB, officially the ‘hottest summer on record’ has just occurred. Has anyone else noticed a lot of records being broken lately?)

Everything I have ever read by Tim Flannery has been informative and a delight to read, though the content can at times be somewhat depressing. He has the great and rare skill of being able to translate the complex information in his extraordinary brain into accessible language. 

Water spirits

The wet season is finally upon us and, happily, this means waterfalls and rock pools. We’ve been drenched but it’s pleasant cooling off, though this doesn’t last long.

We’ve just spent a few days at Hill Inlet (beside Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Island) to beach TC so the drive leg could have some attention, and the hulls received a scrub and polish. Luckily the wind remained strong for most of the time, which helped to limit the sandfly assault. (As it was, the odd sailor’s expletive may have been uttered.) Fortunately it’s a beautiful spot, and we found time for walks along Whitehaven Beach most days, with not another human to be seen other than as specs in the distance on the other side of the inlet. A walk to the viewing lookout meant an encounter with a group of backpackers and a photo opportunity not to be missed. Captain was devastated, though, not to have been chosen for the starring role …

Hill Inlet and TC just visible on the bar

Looking towards Whitehaven Beach

Matey does laps (in stylish stinger suit)

Hill does ominous

Paperbark and erosion

All this activity required preparation and recuperation and so was preceded and concluded by visits to the extraordinary Nara Inlet on Hook Island. This meant further exploration of the ‘main’ waterfall and watercourse, in flow, and the discovery of other temporary waterfalls. Matey was ecstatic to find one that was perfect for washing hair (not only because this was somewhat overdue), with a thoughtfully positioned seat/rock and a view of the Nara fjord while one’s weary back and shoulders were pummelled (before you scoff, remember the anchor wench’s winching duties). Ahhh — the beauty of hills, rocks, water, gravity and surrounding hoop pines and lush vegetation, combined with the thrumming sound of cascading water: it really doesn’t get any better than this!

Capt perched at the top of the main Nara waterfall

Nara waterfall

Captain collects water at a mini-waterfall

Would-be friend

Matey's hair-wash waterfall

Captain zones out during massage

Top of Matey's waterfall

View while washing hair

The hurdle

The long awaited and much anticipated day arrived, when Matey finally overcame her aversion to killing, picked up the rod and began catching fish. Well, one fish, possibly, twice caught. Sadly, once she hauled it out she handed it to Capt Butterfingers for dispatching (this has to be a ‘boy job’, surely). It was promptly dispatched, back into the water. But Mr Largescale Grunter kindly returned for more …

Rationale: it occurred to Matey that if you’re going to eat fish it’s actually less harmful to the ocean and its creatures generally, to catch it rather than buy fish that has probably been caught by unsustainable methods, with who knows what by-catch of other species (reality is, very little commercial fishing is actually sustainable). So, as a fish eater, given the opportunity to catch your own, it’s illogical not to. Ok – it’s taken a little while to arrive at this point (progress perhaps?) NB The ability to change one’s thinking on a subject surely is a sign that one’s brain still works. Matey would like to believe this anyway.

The New year’s resolution will be upheld. (Notably, the Captain of Little Faith was forced to retract his doubting words.)

Back at Airlie - Abel Point Marina

View of Airlie

Wild weather wreaks wrecks

We were relieved to be in Bowen when the effects of ex-tropical cyclone Oswald struck. We experienced strong wind and heavy rain but were safe in our mooring at Bowen. Then it cleared and we had 36 degrees and over 90 per cent humidity: we weren’t wet just from the rain. Matey finally understands the meaning of tropical heat.

Eventually we made our way back towards Airlie Beach, with a stop at Grassy Island on the way. The atmosphere after the rain required Matey to take photos.

We arrived at Airlie just in time for a brief thunderstorm. The carnage of the previous week was almost enough to inspire tears. Apparently 25 boats had been dashed on the rocks …

Bowen moorings

Bowen sunset

View from 'Flagstaff Hill' at Bowen

Gloucester Island after the rain

View from Grassy Island

Sunset at Abel Point Marina

During thunderstorm at Airlie

Oh dear

Why it's worth 'keeping an eye on the weather'

Salvage operations

At Airlie Lagoon with Tiana

Fairies in the woods

Blown to Bowen

Matey has declared 2013 to be 'The Year of Fishing'. She simply must overcome her squeamishness and distaste for causing death and embrace the hunter–gatherer lifestyle. (Now after such a public declaration, the pressure is on. At some point soon she is going to actually put a line in the water and we’ll see what happens then. N.B. She was also inspired by Tiana's fishing talent, hauling in dinner for one and all at George Bay!)

With strong winds we explored new places to the north-west of Airlie. We visited Double Bay — wonderfully deserted apart from one other boat, who evidently would have preferred it to have been the only boat there. We spent a few days at Armit Island: beautiful, deserted and somewhat smelly due to being a ‘significant seabird site’. We also investigated Bluff Point, not far from Airlie and a potential cyclone hole. (With lots of mangroves, also a potential croc hole? Hmmm … death by cyclone or as croc snack? Which is preferable? The choices ...)

We spent a few fun days with Tiana and Gary and the fabulous Razzle Dazzle. Snorkelling was beautiful, at Blue Pearl Bay (Hayman Is.), Manta Ray Bay (Hook Is.) and then Bali Hai (Black Island). Mr Green Turtle meandered ahead of us, slowly flapping fins through the water like wings. Oh to be so relaxed, thought the Matey, trying to emulate his style. She suspects she did not look quite so graceful …

We contemplated going to the reef but it was decided the winds would be too strong. We will get there eventually …

We played a new card game but don’t ask the Captain what happened there. Sadly, Gary and Tiana had to leave us at George Bay. From there we made the quick trip east through Gloucester Passage and anchored outside the famed (among cruisers anyway) Monte’s Resort, with a spectacular view of Gloucester Island. We weren’t disappointed! In addition to a scrumptious dinner with a dramatic view, we were able to have showers (at $3.50 each) and Matey got to wash hair — always an event to celebrate!

As the wind increased so did the swell, so we retreated to an anchorage behind Gloucester Island, Bona Bay. We walked tentatively here, due to the 100 Magic Miles’s warnings of the presence of death adders on the island, but we didn’t sight any. Better to be cautious than regretful though.

After consultation with the weather gods, who were prophesying strong easterly winds for most of the next week, return to Airlie any time soon was not likely, so we decided to continue to Bowen. Luckily we were blown with the wind or it would have been a rough ride indeed! Going with the wind and swell and at the same speed as the swell made for a pleasant (and wonderfully brief!) trip, despite the strength of the wind. Here’s hoping the wind will reverse direction for long enough when we have to head back to Airlie or things could get ugly …

It was still ‘blowin’ in Bowen’ as ‘they’ say when we arrived and we arranged a pile mooring. Thanks to our experience in Brisbane River we knew how to approach this and despite winds of up to 25 knots we were able to manoeuvre our trusty steed into her berth successfully. Matey sighed a very deep breath of relief once TC was secure!

It's a sign of how life has become when the prospect of an easy and unlimited shower is a cause for great joy. Matey can barely express the delight she felt on the discovery that just near the dinghy dock at Bowen is a free public shower! Not only is it easily accessed, limitless and squeakily clean, it has shiny white tiles and a door that locks. It is undoubtedly the nicest public shower Matey has ever encountered. (The lack of hot water is no problem in this climate.) An additional source of joy is the resident green frog - had he been a cane toad Matey's merriment might have been muted.

Captain lands Mr Silver Trevally (we think), 
after Matey decrees the time has come to start catching our own fish.

Admiring the sunset at Armit Island.

Sunset at Blue Pearl Bay (Hayman Island)

With Gary and Tiana, preparing for sunset snorkel, Blue Pearl Bay

With Razzle Dazzle at Manta Ray Bay (Hook Island)

Dazzled (and overtaken) by Razzle

Butterfly Bay - the anchor was not long down due to the assault from March flies. 
Many met their doom, but they won the war as we retreated with haste.

Captain does the blues

The dramatic Gloucester Island

Delicious dinner at Monte's, with Gloucester Island in the background.
(The joy of eating out - a rare treat but more exciting when it's unexpectedly good!)

With our trusty steeds in the background

At Gloucester Island. 
With strengthening wind the sky became more dramatic and the water eerily blue ...

Leaving Gloucester Island for Bowen.

Luckily we were going with the wind and the waves. It was a quick trip.

TC safely in pile mooring at Bowen

Capt's latest contraption: hot water for washing up using the solar shower bag and hose.

Same as above with light focussed inside boat. Note the cheery Washer of Dishes.

Captain the Baker, with his latest offering

Captain looking his special self, as only he knows how

Kermit supervising the goings-on in the shower.

Matey wearing her new 'Captain's hat', 
presented to her by the Captain after she successfully acquired her marine licence.
Does he want to be usurped??