Hook, line and sinker

(Err, no. Matey still hasn't taken up fishing. The more she snorkels the less likely it seems ...)

After a July of winge-worthy weather, finally it turned. August has been sensational – the kind of weather a winter-beaten southerner expects in Queensland. Maximum temperature each day is in the low twenties and the sun smiles. To Matey’s delight, some days the water is a millpond. We are in the Whitsundays and we’ve seen whales, turtles, dolphins and even a manta ray up close. Via mask and snorkel we’ve seen giant (and small) clams, numerous coral ‘gardens’ and curious and disinterested fish. Matey is slowly starting to be able to identify various types, and is becoming less fearful of sharks as ignorance recedes …

We spent a week around Hook Island. Snorkelling at the western and northern anchorages was good. We then snorkelled at nearby Black and Langford Islands and it seemed to get better. Each site was quite different. At 5 am one morning Matey was woken by whale song and breathing close by!

We spent several days anchored at the exquisite Nara Inlet, a fjord with aquamarine water. It’s also reputedly a nursery for hammerhead sharks. As we rowed ashore one day a large manta ray wafted by. We then spent a few days at Cid Harbour on Whitsunday Island. Though we've been here before the more we explore it the more it improves.

With high peaks on many of the islands there is ample opportunity to climb watercourses (and sometimes waterfalls, though almost dry now), and these often provide the only way into the forest. The view is usually worth the climb. The possibility of a fresh water bath provides additional incentive for Captain ‘It doesn’t get any better than this’ Jones.

Whale

Regrowth in Rooper National Park

Matey drove him to it. Obviously.

Matey's millpond

View from waterfall at Sawmill Bay

Manta ray 

Capt C. Dom tries new stinger suit 

Into the deep

Stonehaven 

Nara

 

Oops! Stranded dinghy

Captain's boudoir

Balancing on the peak with Derek and Sheree

Views from Whitsunday Peak

Share the love: help our friends!

Airlie Beach is a good base from which to explore the Whitsundays. We recently spent some time snorkelling at the northern side of Hook Island and it's hard not to be awed by the beauty and diversity of marine life. Matey only emerged from the water when her brain finally registered that the first stages of hypothermia were setting in. (Err, no, the water's not actually overly warm at this time of the year, and yes, she stayed in for too long the next day, and the next ...) 

We made a new friend who's been diving since he was 11, and were inspired by his many stories. We met up with Phil's boat at the entrance to Butterfly Bay. Being a whale whisperer, it seems, a mother and calf had followed him and breached illegally close as we met up and were chatting across the water - the first we knew of their presence. This was exciting as they stayed nearby for several minutes.

Help our fascinating friends

We have the opportunity now to help ensure the extraordinary underwater world in the Coral Sea is protected. Minister Tony Burke has announced a proposed Coral Sea Marine Reserve and is currently accepting submissions. Those of us who care about marine life need to ensure our voices are also heard to balance the predictable bleating of industry lobby groups, some of which are disseminating misinformation (who woulda thunk?) 

If you care about marine life and the future help to show that there is plenty of public support for the Marine Reserve by early September 2012. 

Find out more and show your support at protectourcoralsea.org.au

To the Whitsundays

Enchanted wood

Despite a horrendous forecast, we escaped Mackay for a night with a day of reasonable weather. We anchored at St Bees Island, and were fortunate to discover at Homestead Bay a pretty, rocky stream with numerous blue tiger butterflies fluttering by among the trees and rocks. Then back to Mackay and more foul weather. We felt disappointed for David and Karen, who struck such cold and wet weather (experienced in all its magnificence on a boat, of course). 

We left Mackay once more and headed to Goldsmith Island, which was quiet and pretty, with only a few other boats around. The wind continued to blow and the rain continued to fall, but eventually it subsided and we were able to go ashore to explore. We were also near Farrier Island, a privately leased island. There were no walking tracks at Goldsmith but we managed to clamber up the watercourses over the rocks to a height with amazing views that seemed all the more beautiful when the water looked blue, rather than the grey we'd become accustomed to. Finally the sun had emerged and while the wind continued to blow, we could imagine once again we were in the other state named for that old queen.

Eventually, after feeling we’d explored what we could at Goldsmith, we continued north to Shaw Island. This is a large island opposite Lindeman with a well-protected semicircular anchorage and gorgeous views of islands all along the horizon now that the sun was revealing the superb colours. As the wind continued to howl it was a relief to be so protected from the swell.

The lure of pretty plants

The weather gradually improved and we continued north to Cid Harbour on Whitsunday Island. Arriving at Cid was exciting as for the first time we saw whales. 
During a walk towards the peak we encountered a plant we’d seen in the Eungella rainforest. Matey is glad her curiosity about its purple 'raspberries' didn’t get the better of her. Thanks to Karen for identifying this as the dreaded stinging tree. Somehow Matey managed to avoid being stung, despite picking a berry or two. Oh dear, stingers in the water, and out of it ...

Then home to Airlie Beach (well - we've been here before), and the sun appears to be our friend  once again.


For our friends afloat ...

The Whitsunday Sailing Club at Airlie Beach is a find. Temporary membership provides access to the dinghy dock, water, bathroom and laundry facilities and the daily rate is so reasonable it’s funny. It’s also friendly and serves good food. (Eating out is a rare experience these days, but we wanted to support the club as they provide such a great facility for itinerants. So we had birthday lunch with Chris and Peter from Reef Magic, who we first met at Goldsmith Island, and Matey had the most delicious salt and pepper calamari ever, she thinks. Who woulda thunk? On second thoughts, maybe Matey is just bored with her own cooking? Hmmm … no, it wasn’t just that.) We are now pondering why anyone would go to the poverty-inducing marina. (OK – well in a cyclone it probably makes sense – but the rest of the time? I kid you not – boats are in there.)

St Bees ...

Goldsmith Is.

View to Farrier Is.

Shaw Is.

Another plant (fruit) needing identification

Whitsunday Is.

Stinging tree: luckily Matey restrained the temptation to make friends - sort of ...

View at Cid Harbour

Rainforest fix

The best place to be when it’s raining is in a rainforest. So when David and Karen arrived and a week of strong (ferocious) wind finally subsided into rain, we hired a car and drove from Mackay to the Araluen Cascade and the Wheel of Fire in the Eungella National Park. Ahhh. Apart from being cold and wet Matey was in heaven.

Freezing in sunny Qld